Pongko-Pongko
sa Sugbu!
Filipinos are very well known for being
food enthusiasts- we just simply love food. No matter the shape, the size, the
source and manner of eating, we acquaint ourselves with even the most bizarre
and exotic foods available. All over the Philippines, we see different kinds of
cuisine that different people from different culture enjoy. In Ilocos, there’s
the mishmash of vegetables with bagoong known as Pinakbet, in Bicol, we have
the tongue-teaser Bicol express and there’s also Zamboanga’s pochero and many
other cuisines available all over the country.
In the Queen City of the South alone,
there are plenty of cuisines that are very well attached to the place. When
somebody says lechon or chicharon, people immediately think about Carcar and
when it comes to mango and corn-- Cebu is most definitely the place to go.
However, we also have a not so well-known cuisine to other Filipinos but is
popular to the Cebuanos in the name of pongko-pongko. Pongko-pongko literally
means “to sit down”, and it is exactly what customers do--just sitting around
casually and eating the cheap and delicious food from a wide variety of
choices. For Cebuanos, this cuisine does not only represent our love for food,
but also of our culture and our identity as Sugbuanons.
Nobody knows who started it, but pongko-pongko
is known to have sprung from the streets around the Redemptorist Church in
Maxilom. More than twenty years ago, the business started in the area and aside
from attracting customers, it also attracted other people who wanted to venture
in the business. For many years, stalls started to proliferate around the area
until they realized that it was time to outsource. Some vendors started to set
up their pongko-pongko stalls in other places such as Abellana and Colon
street. From there, pongko-pongko stalls have been seen all over Cebu, usually
beside schools, malls and churches. Other famous pongko-pongko dining areas are
those in Carbon, along the piers, and outside of JY mall in Lahug.
Although it may not be the exact
definition of fine dining, pongko-pongko actually attracts a lot of people from
different social strata. According to a pongko-pongko vendor around the
Redemptorist Church, “Ang kasagaran diri
nga customer kanang mga kwartahan. Kanang gikan simba. Sige na silag
balik-balik diri kay lami man daw. Bisag mga tigulang, anhi jud na sila.”(The
most frequent customers we have are rich people, thoe who just went to mass.
They always come here because they say it’s delicious) Most other times, students
are the frequent customers of pongko-pongko. Students from CDU, Velez, UP, UC
and CIT flock to their nearest ponko-pongko stalls to enjoy the cheap food sold
by friendly vendors who enjoy talking a lot.
Aside
from the pongko-pongko representing the distinct pallet of Cebuanos, it also
reflects our culture and identity. When it comes to customers, pongko-pongko
attracts even the richest of people. This goes to say that Cebuanos are not
choosy and “maarte” despite the inelegance and the unhygienic nature of the
pongko-pongko. Moreover, this displays the adventurous side of the Cebuano
people in our attempt to look for cheap and exotic foods. Thrift is also
reflected by this kind of cuisine especially for students. Along with this, the
pongko-pongko also shows the creative side of Cebuanos in creating new business
ventures that is open to a wide variety of customers.
The distinct characteristic of all
pongko-pongko dishes is its crispiness and deep-fried way of cooking in all of
its wide-variety of dishes. Every pongko - pongko has “Lumpia”, “Ginabot”, “Bola
- bola”, “Tungol” and “Unod”.
The “Lumpia” was made crispy and can be bought for two pesos only. It was made cheap because instead of meat, it has strands of Monggo sprout which is commonly known as “Tawgi” inside it. The “Ginabot” is the pig’s intestine which was thoroughly cleaned and deep fried while “Tungol”, on the hand, is the pig’s stomach. Furthermore, “Bola - bola” is, basically, a meatball added with some vegetables cut into small pieces and “Unod” is a small piece of meat.
Overtime, however, Cebuanos have become
creative and clever in adding a variety of dishes. There’s longganisa, porkchop
and ngohiong which are also available to most carinderias, but in the
pongko-pongko anyone can see that it is much different. All dishes available at
the pongko-pongko are usually of the same color (yellow or orange). Before
deep-frying it, the cook usually rolls all the pig’s insides over a little
flour mixed with water and food coloring. And the price? All dishes are
available below twenty pesos. The cheapest of all pongko-pongko are found along
the Redemptorist Church, but all other pongko-pongko stalls also carry cheap
prices for all dishes. With even just twenty pesos, one can be as full as a
pig. Five pieces of lumpia at two pieces each and five pieces of puso also at
two pesos each, then you’ll
be full for sure.
A pongko-pongko stall is usually
comprised of long benches and a low table, equally as long as the benches.
While just sitting casually and with a slightly arched back, customers face the
long table and grab the plastic bag. Pongko-pongko stalls are not equipped with
spoons, forks or knives like the elegant restaurants. As I said, it does not
even come close to elegant. And it’s not exactly hygienic either as water to
wash hands are not even a given. One just grabs the plastic bag and wraps a
hand with it, and just take whatever looks desirable for the tummy. A big
plastic container holds all the dishes available for sale and another, much smaller
strainer or plastic container holds the puso. Puso is the staple food that
perfectly matches the fried pongko-pongko dishes. Aside from that, puso is also
a strategic type of staple food because along with spoons and forks, plates are
also not provided. With a puso on one hand and the viand on another, anyone is
ready to take a hungry bite. But wait! a meal in the pongko-pongko with just
the puso and the dishes would be really boring without a matching bowl of
vinegar mixed with chili. Now get ready, set, and EAT!
